Unclimbed Summits in Pakistan - Khane Valley
One week later on Aug 19-20, Petkov and Boyanov ascended the big wall route on the east face of the unclimbed Grey Tower (5434 m).
On summiting the virgin towers, the climbers also measured their geometrical altitude with Garmin GPS.
"This year we placed our base camp at the so called Boulder Base Camp, 4050 m, in the middle of the First Terrace. It is a beautiful, green and flowery spot, near the river and around some big stones."
Levski Peak, 5733 m
West face, 650 m, M6, AI4, 6a
"We made a tent under the wall, at 5050 m, in the icy circus between peak Sofia, Singu Chatpa (Great Tower), Levski and Rila. Then in two days (one bivouac at 5648 m), climbing 14 pitches with 50 m double rope. Used only nuts for protection. At about 10 am on August 14 we reached the summit – an ideal rocky pyramid. Then 10 big rappels to the icy/snowy couloir."
Grey Tower, 5435 m
East Ridge, 600 m, AI3 (to the col), 6b, mainly 5c
"We made a tent on the col between Meligo Peak and Grey Tower. It is difficult and dangerous to reach the col from Khane valley because the last 300 meters are icy, snowy and hit by early morning rock falls."
"From here to the summit are 13 pitches in total, mainly easy and moderate climbing, with one/two sections 6a+/6b. The summit itself is an ideal needle, rocky, with a 2x3 m flat place on the top. Fantastic views in all directions. Then 11 rappels to the col plus 80 m down climbing at one place."
The expedition was supported by Jasmine Tours in Pakistan.
The team made a recon trip to the Khane area last year. Find those trip reports at the project website and the AAJ.
For further information please contact us
Asghar Ali Porik
Owner
M/s JASMINE TOURS
House No. 15, Street No. 15, Garden Town,
Khanna Dak, Islamabad, PAKISTAN.
Tel/Fax: 0092-51-2615368
Cell: 0092-333-5109753
www.jasminetours.com
info@jasminetours.com
aaporik@gmail.com
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